Confluence of Rivers

A small town named Samnangjin 삼랑진 is around the confluence of two rivers,  the Nakdong river 낙동강 and the Miryang river 밀양강. Samnangjin refers to a river dock where choppy water fed by three tributaries flows over the surface. Since Shilla dynasty(57~935 AD), a river dock located here had actually played a principal role in the water transportation route along the Nakdong river. It later became one of the largest docks along the Nakdong River during the Joseon Dynasty(1392–1910), where its role as a tax collection center was particularly emphasized. and it had a prosperous period in its history. The tax was usually paid in grain, cotton cloth, and coin. In 1765, a tax warehouse named Jochang 조창 was opened on the riverside at the confluence to store the taxes collected from 6 regions, including Miryang, Gimhae 김해, and Hyeonpung 현풍. Jochang refers to a warehouse for taxes arrived by ships. This route was linked to Samunjin 사문진 and Gangchang 강창 river docks.

A railway station was opened 3 km inland northeast of Jochang in 1905. Since overland traffic was introduced, the water transportation route had decayed. Jochang was closed, cherishing old memories, and the town center was moved to Songji 송지, nearby, where a railway station was built. However, Samnangjin had flourished again since the railway station became a junction, which is connected to Seoul 서울, Busan 부산, and Masan 마산. 

During the Japanese colonial period, Samnangjin railway station had a big official residence for railway workers, which still remains partly renovated on the gentle slope to the north of the station. The residence features unique stone-and-cement walls, as in traditional Japanese castle architecture.

Meanwhile, since the first track had been partly relocated, the single-track bridge named Samnangjin bridge near Jochang was abandoned. Now it is still one-way car traffic or used by cyclists. It was nicknamed "Bridge on the River Kwai" in Thailand. The old rusty iron railway bridge is often called that in Korea.

Samnangjin was also located on the key walking route to Seoul and Busan during Joseon Dynasty. The trail still remains partly on the steep mountain slope by the Nakdong river, which is called Jando 잔도. There is a bike path built right out over the water.

Where Old Memories Flow

The Nakdong 낙동강 and the Geumho 금호강, meet around Hwawon resort. The smaller one, Geumho flows into Nakdong, the longest river in the southern peninsula. Shincheon 신천, the urban stream in Daegu is a branch of the Geumho river.

The Geumho river separates western Daegu from Dasa 다사 district. A bridge connects the two at Gangchang 강창 meaning a riverside storage; gang 강 is river, chang 창 storage. In Joseon Dynasty(1392~1910 AD), sea and rivers were the main routes to transport the tax collected locally to the government in Seoul. Gangchang was a riverside storage where the tax amount was stored temporarily. Tax collecting ship used to come to pick up the stored tax earlier every year. The tax was usually paid with grains of rice.

Small boats had been also operated to transport locals to the other side of the river since the ancient times. The boats had been the only way for the locals to cross the river until a new bridge named Gangchang was built in 1971. The very top photo on the left shows a ferry boat crossing the river and the other one locals joined the opening ceremony of Gangchang bridge to celebrate.

The first bridge is not here any longer and has been expanded and renovated twice since 1971. The above ones are views of the present bridge opened in 2009, which has ten lanes. Gangchang used to be a typical countryside as the other villages around the city. It had peaceful scenery along the stretch of riverside with sands and tall trees, and traditional houses were scattered here and there along the dusty road. As urbanization occurred, however, the landscape is not just as it was in the past. Only the nearby mountains look the same as past.

Blue Trail

The eastern coast of the Korean peninsula has a hiking trail covering 688 km(428 miles). Since this route offers a beautiful and peaceful view of seashore along with the blue color of East Sea, it is called Haepargang Gil 해파랑길; Hae means sea, Parang blue, Gil trail. The whole route separates into 10 sections belonging to 10 administrative regions. 

Yeongdeok 영덕 County as one of 10 sections has its coastal trail covering 62.9 km of rugged terrain along the coastline. From nearly every point on the trail, hikers are enthralled by the blue sea with the panoramic horizon. The trail passes through some rocky areas and is rugged with some steep sections. Plus it runs through peaceful and rural coastal villages and tiny harbors. Since the trail is man-made recently, not treading trodden trails for a long time, you should watch your step sometimes.

Every year in March or April, Yeongdeok holds a festival to attract tourists loving Daege(snow crab) 대게 across the nation and abroad. The above one shows the official poster for this year's festival.

Harbor & Backstreet

Sea view from the outer harbor of Gampo 감포 last January. Gampo is one of the major fishing harbors somewhere along the eastern coast. Squids and Octopus are the main fish species. Unique fishing gears for octopus meet the eye along the pier.

The Japanese erected a monument to celebrate the building of the harbor during the colonial age. It has been neglected at the corner since independence. Gampo is surrounded by hills, so most of the dwellings are nestled in the hillside slopes. Tourists can picture this public bathhouse flourishing for a while. The tall chimney and steam sign drawn on it were once the typical scene to attract customers' attention. The right one is seen from behind. Already closed down.

Shops are lined up along the street in front of the public bathhouse. The other one shows the locked door of the nearby old mill. The backstreet of Gampo affords us glimpses into the ordinary lives of villagers, along with the remains of the colonial age.

Winggye Trail

Winggye 윙계 is the name of a side valley in the southern mountain area in Daegu 대구. Winggye means a valley on the left side; wing means "left", a dialect of wen 왼 and gye "valley." On the way to Jeongdae-ri 정대리, a remote village at the bottom end of the main valley, the road branches off to the left and gets narrower, finally turning into a mountain trail that becomes a little vague. In the past, when public transportation was not available, locals used to walk along this trail in the middle of this valley. The above photo was taken last May at the entrance to Winggye; the ones below were taken at the same place and around the valley this spring.

This walking trail connected western Daegu with southern regions such as Cheongdo 청도 and Miryang 밀양. Since this area is surrounded by mountains, the ancient people traveling through this region seem to choose the lowest pass along the ridge. Winggye is really the finest choice for them to cross this mountain area. Older villagers, who have lived in the area for decades, recall that the trail used to be jam-packed with travelers. Since the new road opened, it has become almost deserted.

It was getting warmer. Cherry trees came into bloom. Winggye Jae 윙계재 is the name of the pass across the mountain ridge, between Winggye and the other side of Cheongdo province; Jae 재 means "pass." Heading southwards, the trail leads up the gentle slope and becomes steep near the ridge. Trail markers sit on the ridge pass. Four trails lead out from the pass.

Songnae 송내 is the first village that you should reach when you go southwards down the mountain along the trail from Winggye Jae. There used to be a couple of traditional taverns for the travelers in this village who were going to cross the pass or came across it. The pavilion in the photo above, located behind the boulder, marks the site at which a tavern once stood. To its left is a stone stack called Seonangdang 서낭당, which was dedicated to the village guardian deity in local folk belief. Travelers would place stones on the stack and pray for a safe journey, believing that the deity would protect them along the road.

Looking at the mountain range from spring field in the southern district, Gakbuk 각북, you can see Winggye Jae, the lowest spot on the ridgeline in the distance. Walking along the ancient tracks trodden for thousands of years has encouraged people to contemplate life and its meaning.

Heading further southwards, you may reach a bit bigger town named Punggak 풍각. In the old days, people passing near here were likely to stop off at some inns accommodating them with a night's lodging. It takes about 7 and a half hours on foot from western Daegu to here, but the suburban bus covers the distance within half an hour. The photo above shows a bus to Daegu waiting to depart outside the Punggak Bus Terminal, which is currently under repair.

Japanese Artillery in Oiyangpo

Russu-Japanese war in 1904~1905 AD affected Oiyangpo 외양포, a tiny coastal village, located on the southern Gadeokdo 가덕도, an island southwest of Busan 부산. Russian Baltic fleet departed from the Baltic sea to relieve the blockaded and besieged Russian forces at Port Arthur on the Yellow sea in October 1904. It took eight months for the Russian fleet to reach Tsushima Straits.

In 1904, the inhabitants' lands and houses in Oiyangpo were forcibly expropriated according to Korea-Japan Treaty signed in the same year that was the first step to Korea's colonization by Japan. The Korean Government paid compensation to the inhabitants. In 1904, Imperial Japanese army landed Oieyangpo, whose villagers were displaced. The Japanese started soon constructing the artillery headquarter, barracks, attached facilities, etc., and soon after their artillery batteries were deployed. The above photo taken last September is the view from behind the village. Japan was concerned about the possibility that the Russian fleet can attack Jinhae 진해 where Imperial Japanese fleet docked. They thought the Baltic fleet had to pass through the sea around Oiyangpo, one of the strategic points on the way to Jinhae.

After the artillery headquarter moved to Masan in 1911, this military base in Oiyangpo had been maintained for the defense of Busan and Jinhae bays. This view shows the artillery training at Masan 마산 where the Imperial Japanese artillery headquarter was located. The same 280mm howitzers that Japanese used during the Russu-Japanese war can be seen. Like in Oiyangpo, Japan later built 11 bases including one in Jeju island across the coastline and islands in the southern area of the nation to defend itself against the potential attacks that could be launched by Russia in the early 20th century and America during World War II.

The view shows Japanese 280mm howitzers raining shells on the Russia position during the Russo-Japanese war. 

The Japanese artillery in Oiyangpo was cleverly hidden from outside. It can be only seen from the air. It was positioned at the foot of mountain behind the village and constructed with the thick concrete walls. Its plan is rectangular-shaped and reserved several explosive warehouses and noise barriers around. Six 280mm howitzers were deployed in 3 positions, one pair each, which had been maintained until Japan's defeat in World War II. However, there have been no exchanges of fire here. After Japan's defeat, US navy landed Oiyangpo and captured this military base.

The sites where the artillery batteries were deployed had been devastated since independence from Japan. There have been only ruins left. But the barracks where Japanese soldiers stayed remained. The inhabitants displaced in 1904 returned their home and have lived in the barracks since then. The properties of the area have been owned by the government and renovation not permitted. Ironically, strict law enforcement has kept the vestiges of Japanese imperialism alive.

Samunjin River Dock

Samunjin Naruteo 사문진 나루터 in western Daegu used to be a famous river dock at the Nakdong Riverside, along with its attached Jumak 주막 referring to the old tavern. The Nakdong river has been the major traffic route since Shilla dynasty(57~935). Trade with Japan was booming along this route as well. Samun in Samunjin means Buddhist monks, Jin, a dock. A story passed down through generations tells that there were many Buddhist temples around here. The monks likely crossed the river by ferry; it is easy to understand why this place got its name. The photo above shows the view of the river in front of Samunjin about 50 years ago.

The photo taken at the Hangang river in Seoul by an American, William F. Sands(1874~1946) in 1896, shows the typical scenery of the river dock at the time. In March 1900, Richard H. Sidebotham(1874~1908), an American missionary, got off the ferry at Samujin. The ferry he got off was loaded with a piano being brought from America, which was historically the first piano to be introduced into Korea. Porters were hired to carry the piano from here to the Americans' residence downtown. The locals, seeing it for the first time, were curious about what the strange object was like. Then they named it a ghost box 귀신통 because some weird and unusual sounds came from it.

The photo taken by an American missionary depicts porters carrying the piano. The railroad and road networks have been developed since Korea began to modernize, and many river docks, including Samunjin, have been closed. During the colonial period, the Japanese built an amusement park at the site of the hill overlooking Samunjin and the nearby area. 

This scene is the overview of Hwawon amusement park and Samunjin river dock during the colonial period. Hwawon 화원 is the name of the town nearby. A couple of decades after independence from Japan, this park had been one of the most visited destinations for people living in Daegu. However, the number of visitors has decreased since people owned their private cars. Seemed like its flourishing period remained as an old story.

A new bridge linking Hwawon park and Dasan 다산, a remote village across the river, was built in 1993, which has changed the lifestyle of Dasan villagers a lot in recent years.

Last year, Dalseong 달성 County finally decided to renovate and restore Samunjin and its traditional Jumak to attract local residents and tourists once again. A year later, the Samunjin river dock and Jumak were reopened in the summer. Jumak consists of some thatched-roof cottages. Some flat wooden benches are put in the front yard. People have fun drinking Makgeolli 막걸리, or rice wine, and tasting traditional dishes cooked instantly. A ferry and a small cruiser are operated on a regular basis. Once again,  Samunjin river dock and Jumak start to be packed with people. It is hard to find empty seats at Jumak on weekends.

 

Autumn has also come to Samunjin and Jumak. As autumn, the best season of the year, deepens, people prefer to go out on weekends to enjoy the crisp air and beautiful fall scenery. Last Sunday afternoon, it rained several times while the sun shone. The weather was so fickle. The yellow gingko leaves were falling on the wet road in front of Jumak gate. Photos were taken outside Jumak. A rainbow hung in the sky over southern Hwawon after the rainfall stopped.