Thursday, November 13, 2014

Japanese Artillery in Oiyangpo

Russu-Japanese war in 1904~1905 AD affected Oiyangpo 외양포, a tiny coastal village, located on the southern Gadeokdo 가덕도, an island southwest of Busan 부산. Russian Baltic fleet departed from the Baltic sea to relieve the blockaded and besieged Russian forces at Port Arthur on the Yellow sea in October 1904. It took eight months for the Russian fleet to reach Tsushima Straits.
In 1904, the inhabitants' lands and houses in Oiyangpo were forcibly expropriated according to Korea-Japan Treaty signed in the same year that was the first step to Korea's colonization by Japan. The Korean Government paid compensation to the inhabitants. In 1904, Imperial Japanese army landed Oieyangpo, whose villagers were displaced. The Japanese started soon constructing the artillery headquarter, barracks, attached facilities, etc., and soon after their artillery batteries were deployed. The above photo taken last September is the view from behind the village. Japan was concerned about the possibility that the Russian fleet can attack Jinhae 진해 where Imperial Japanese fleet docked. They thought the Baltic fleet had to pass through the sea around Oiyangpo, one of the strategic points on the way to Jinhae.
After the artillery headquarter moved to Masan in 1911, this military base in Oiyangpo had been maintained for the defense of Busan and Jinhae bays. This view shows the artillery training at Masan 마산 where the Imperial Japanese artillery headquarter was located. The same 280mm howitzers that Japanese used during the Russu-Japanese war can be seen. Like in Oiyangpo, Japan later built 11 bases including one in Jeju island across the coastline and islands in the southern area of the nation to defend itself against the potential attacks that could be launched by Russia in the early 20th century and America during World War II.
The view shows Japanese 280mm howitzers raining shells on the Russia position during the Russo-Japanese war. 
The Japanese artillery in Oiyangpo was cleverly hidden from outside. It can be only seen from the air. It was positioned at the foot of mountain behind the village and constructed with the thick concrete walls. Its plan is rectangular-shaped and reserved several explosive warehouses and noise barriers around. Six 280mm howitzers were deployed in 3 positions, one pair each, which had been maintained until Japan's defeat in World War II. However, there have been no exchanges of fire here. After Japan's defeat, US navy landed Oiyangpo and captured this military base.
The sites where the artillery batteries were deployed had been devastated since independence from Japan. There have been only ruins left. But the barracks where Japanese soldiers stayed remained. The inhabitants displaced in 1904 returned their home and have lived in the barracks since then. The properties of the area have been owned by the government and renovation not permitted. Ironically, strict law enforcement has kept the vestiges of Japanese imperialism alive.

Tuesday, November 04, 2014

Samunjin River Dock

Samunjin Naruteo 사문진 나루터 in western Daegu used to be a famous river dock at the Nakdong Riverside along with its attached Jumak 주막 referring to the old tavern. The Nakdong river has been the major traffic route since Shilla dynasty(57~935). Trade with Japan was booming along this route as well. Samun in Samunjin means Buddhist monks, Jin a dock. A story passed down through generations tells that there were many Buddhist temples around here. The monks were likely to cross the river by ferry, it can be easily understood why this place got the name. The above photo shows the scenery of Nakdong river in front of Samunjin about 50 years ago.
The photo taken at the Han riverside in Seoul by an American, William F. Sands(1874~1946) in 1896 shows the typical scene of river dock at that time. In March 1900, Richard H. Sidebotham(1874~1908), an American missionary got off the ferry at Samujin. The ferry he got off loaded a piano being brought from America, which is historically the first piano to be introduced into Korea. Porters were joined to carry the piano from here to the American's residence in downtown. Locals having seen it first in their life were curious about what that strange thing is like. Then they named it a ghost box 귀신통 because some weird and unusual sounds came from it.
The photo taken by an American missionary depicts the scene of porters carrying the piano. The network of railroad and automobile has been built up since Korea began to be modernized, and many river docks including Samunjin were closed. During the colonial period, Japanese built an amusement park at the site of the hill overlooking Samunjin and the nearby area. 
This scene is the overview of Hwawon amusement park and Samunjin river dock during the colonial period. Hwawon 화원 is the name of the town nearby. A couple of decades after independence from Japan, this park had been one of the most visited destinations by people living in Daegu. However, the number of visitors has been decreased since people owned their private cars. Seemed like its flourishing period remained as an old story.

A new bridge linking Hwawon park and Dasan 다산, a remote village across the river was built in 1993, which has changed Dasan villagers' lifestyle a lot in the past years.

Last year, Dalseong county managing this area finally decided to renovate and restore Samunjin and Jumak in an efforts to attract local people and tourists again. A year later, Samunjin river dock and Jumak were reopened in summer. Jumak consists of some thatched-roof cottages. Some flat wooden benches are put into the front yard. People have fun drinking rice wine and tasting traditional dishes cooked instantly. A ferry and a small cruiser are operated on regular. Once again  Samunjin river dock and Jumak start being packed with people. It is hard to find empty seats at Jumak on weekends.
 
Autumn has also come to Samunjin and Jumak. When autumn, the best season of the year is deepening, on weekends people prefer to going out to feel the typical autumn scenery and cool weather. Last Sunday afternoon, it rained suddenly several times, while the sun shone. The weather was so fickle. The yellow gingko leaves were falling on the wet road in front of Jumak gate. Photos were taken outside Jumak. A rainbow hung in the sky over southern Hwawon after the rainfall stopped.

Tuesday, May 13, 2014

Old Trail

Before public transport services were operated in the modern times, travelling on foot was the only way available for the ordinary people. Koreans usually wore simple shoes called Jipsin 짚신 made of rice straw.

The shoes are not enough strong to cover the walking distance, so travelers prepared extra pairs depending on the distance of the journey. Sometimes they go together with livestock as native goat, rabbit, chicken and cattle for sale.
 
Hiking along the trails on the mountains becomes sports for health these days. But in the past, walking along the mountain trails was just one of the important parts of ordinary life itself. They needed to exchange their own products with others away from their villages, so that walking across the river, fields and mountains were natural and inevitable. 

They walked and hiked along the shortest paths and trails between areas. They used the carriers named Jige 지게 made of wood and rice straw to carry daily necessaries to sell or buy in the local markets. To save time, it seems they tried to find the shortest and gentle paths. The past roads for walking travelers in the fields don't nearly remain any longer, but some trails on the mountains used by them still partly remain.