Tuesday, November 04, 2014

Samunjin River Dock

Samunjin Naruteo 사문진 나루터 in western Daegu used to be a famous river dock at the Nakdong Riverside, along with its attached Jumak 주막 referring to the old tavern. The Nakdong river has been the major traffic route since Shilla dynasty(57~935). Trade with Japan was booming along this route as well. Samun in Samunjin means Buddhist monks, Jin, a dock. A story passed down through generations tells that there were many Buddhist temples around here. The monks likely crossed the river by ferry; it is easy to understand why this place got its name. The photo above shows the view of the river in front of Samunjin about 50 years ago.
The photo taken at the Hangang river in Seoul by an American, William F. Sands(1874~1946) in 1896, shows the typical scenery of the river dock at the time. In March 1900, Richard H. Sidebotham(1874~1908), an American missionary, got off the ferry at Samujin. The ferry he got off was loaded with a piano being brought from America, which was historically the first piano to be introduced into Korea. Porters were hired to carry the piano from here to the Americans' residence downtown. The locals, seeing it for the first time, were curious about what the strange object was like. Then they named it a ghost box 귀신통 because some weird and unusual sounds came from it.
The photo taken by an American missionary depicts porters carrying the piano. The railroad and road networks have been developed since Korea began to modernize, and many river docks, including Samunjin, have been closed. During the colonial period, the Japanese built an amusement park at the site of the hill overlooking Samunjin and the nearby area. 
This scene is the overview of Hwawon amusement park and Samunjin river dock during the colonial period. Hwawon 화원 is the name of the town nearby. A couple of decades after independence from Japan, this park had been one of the most visited destinations for people living in Daegu. However, the number of visitors has decreased since people owned their private cars. Seemed like its flourishing period remained as an old story.

A new bridge linking Hwawon park and Dasan 다산, a remote village across the river, was built in 1993, which has changed the lifestyle of Dasan villagers a lot in recent years.

Last year, Dalseong 달성 County finally decided to renovate and restore Samunjin and its traditional Jumak to attract local residents and tourists once again. A year later, the Samunjin river dock and Jumak were reopened in the summer. Jumak consists of some thatched-roof cottages. Some flat wooden benches are put in the front yard. People have fun drinking Makgeolli 막걸리, or rice wine, and tasting traditional dishes cooked instantly. A ferry and a small cruiser are operated on a regular basis. Once again,  Samunjin river dock and Jumak start to be packed with people. It is hard to find empty seats at Jumak on weekends.
 
Autumn has also come to Samunjin and Jumak. As autumn, the best season of the year, deepens, people prefer to go out on weekends to enjoy the crisp air and beautiful fall scenery. Last Sunday afternoon, it rained several times while the sun shone. The weather was so fickle. The yellow gingko leaves were falling on the wet road in front of Jumak gate. Photos were taken outside Jumak. A rainbow hung in the sky over southern Hwawon after the rainfall stopped.