mom's hometown

At the end of last autumn, cycled around the mom's hometown, the far northern region of the province surrounding Daegu 대구. Mom's parents lived in a small village near Hwaseo 화서 when she was born, in which she had witnessed the historical moments like the independence from Japan and the Korean war. The grand parents now rest in peace at the nearby hill with a good view, and the uncle and aunt below them, too. 

Parked at Hwaseo township office in the morning, and headed southwards towards Hwanggan 황간 along the typical rural road. It was a little bit chilly, chiller than Daegu. Passed small villages and arrived at the bottom of mountain pass. As other people, mother had to cross the high mountain pass named Subong Jae 수봉재 on foot to go and come to Hwanggan, where a railway station is located. She doesn't remember how long it took from her village to the railway station on foot, however, she said sometimes she must spend a night at her relative' home in a village on the way home. For her son, about two and half an hour were enough to reach the station from the township office by bicycle. The high mountain pass is under construction in order to lower the height and widen the road.

It was the second visit to Hwanggan, whose railway station, catholic church on the hill and downtown seem to be the same as before. The quiet town scenery keeps a visitor warm and secure as ever. 

On the way back, ran eastwards to Chupungryeong 추풍령 that has the highest altitude railway station on the Seoul-Busan railroad line. A water tank tower in the place where steam locomotives stopped to refill water still remains. And then, headed northwards and passed through three villages, Modong 모동, Moseo 모서 and Hwadong 화동, and finally reached at the graves nestled in the hill where the grandparents, uncle, aunts and elder cousin sister are buried. 

Ganggu 강구 & Okgye valley 옥계

Everyone has his own memories of childhood.  Memories may fade as the years go by, however, they remain in his life as a bunch of faded pictures. In the childhood, had lived in Ganggu 강구 for a few years. Ganggu meaning the entrance of river is a typical fishing harbor located at the eastern coastline of the peninsular. Actually the river named Osipcheon 오십천 flows through Ganggu. 

This harbor village has seen lots of changes since the eastern highway from Pohang 포항 to Samcheok 삼척 got fully paved in 1979.  Since then, the tourism has grown steadily, thanks to the increase in demand for high quality seafood and travel opportunities. Most Koreans often picture the image of snow crab 대게 when they think of Ganggu. 

Have already planned to cycle around Ganggu, Okgye valley 옥계 and Yeoungdeok 영덕 since last summer. Drove to the township office of Ganggu this past October and started cycling toward Okgye valley in the west. In order to come Okgye valley from Ganggu, you should cross a mountain pass and reach the junction where three roads diverge; one is for Dalsan 달산 and Yeoungdeok in the north, the other Okgye valley in the south.

Turned on the right to approach Juwangsan national park 주왕산 국립공원 in Cheongsong 청송 county via Dalsan. On the way to the mountain top pass, a typical rural scenery attracts a cyclist along the road. There is a gradual ascent to the foot of the mountain and then the road sharply drops off into a steep slope that is a leisurely zig zag road up to the ridge. The first bit of relief from the steady uphill climb comes from the halfway up the mountain. The road sign stands on the top mountain pass where you can take a rest. There is a steep descent with no curb to the village below. Experienced a different kind of dangerous downhill thrill as the road was not in favorable conditions for cycling.

One of the famous local specialties in this region is apple, whose orchards are easily seen from the road. Peach orchards are also found. Then, apple picking season was in full swing. A villager offered a cyclist passing by to try some apples when he stopped taking pictures for a moment. They were golden apples being picked on that day.

Okgye valley is a famous tourist attraction in summer. The RV camping site and campground are spotted more often along the trail near the valley. This valley used to be the end of the dusty road from Yeoungdeok 영덕 and then it was not tourist spot at all. Only a few people knew the value of Okgye valley and enjoyed the nature and scenic landscape. People believe nature has a healing power. That's why it is where we come from and we belong. An old pavilion built over 200 years ago sits on the rock, overlooking the valley. On the way back to Ganggu, rode on the road, looking down the river, Osipcheon. 

around Geochang 거창

It has been about one year since cycled around Hapcheon 합천 lake. On the threshold of winter, started a short bike ride to get around the lake and Geochang 거창. Arrived at Geochang sports complex and started cycling east to get close to the lakeside. Geochang surrounded by three national parks has its own natural attractions like Suseungdae rock 수승대. In the morning, it was a bit chilly as in the last year.

Hwang river 황강 passing through Geochang drains into the Hapcheon lake on the north-west corner of the lake. The road along the river runs evenly east and is connected to the lakeside.

Besides, you can select another route between mountains and river valley to reach the lakeside from Geochang. To access this route, you should cross a mountain pass not easy as it seems. But for your sweat and toil you will be rewarded with beautiful views and scenic overlooks.

Large dam leads to submergence of the land area including bridge. An old bridge resurfaced as the lake was drained. There seemed to be two people fishing on the old broken bridge. The above photo was taken from the newly constructed bridge over the lake. In the picture at the top, you can view the new bridge from the other side.

in and around meteor crater

Geologists have confirmed that the Jeokjung-Chogye 적중-초계 Basin near Hapcheon 합천 in the southeastern Korean Peninsula, is the direct geological proof of meteorite impact crater produced 50-thousand years ago. The basin is shaped like bowl, 7 Kilometers in diameter. 

Last weekend, drove to the basin and parked at the Chogye township office. Started cycling southwards in the counter-clockwise direction and crossed the southern mountain pass. The ginkgo leaves along the roads turned yellow and the rice field across the basin has been already harvested.

The  enclosing mountains are lower in the north and higher in the south. Takeoff area for paragliders is somewhere along the ridge of the southern mountains. The Mita pass 미타재 on the southern ridge is the toughest climb around the basin.

The road leads down into the narrow valley as you pedal down a long descent.  Passing through another mountain pass and fields on route, headed for the trail along the Nakdong river. Could find only one rider on the way back to the starting point, Chogye township office. Feel like many cyclists approach off-season as it is getting colder.

like water and wind

It has been about one year since last visited Yeonghae 영해 and Byunggok 병곡. Got there over 2 hours and 30 minutes from Daegu by car. Drove to Yeonghae last weekend, unloaded the bicycle at the parking lot in front of Goesi-ri traditional village 괴시리 전통마을  and started cycling around the coastal regions. The village has its own historical background to attract tourists as Yi saek 이색(1328~1396), an eminent confucian scholar in the late Goryeo dynasty was born here.

It's always fun to reflect back on the days of childhood. Enjoyed cycling on the old trails along the coast, tracing the childhood memories. Byunggok used to be a tiny fishing village, however, everything has been changed except road and back alley locations, and new restaurants and accommodation facilities now occupy the space instead, its long beach and beautiful seashore landscape having become ever more popular. 

Jangyuksa Buddhist temple 장육사 was also added along the coastal trail to the route this time, which is one of the popular tourist attractions among Buddhists. Seon(Zen) master Naong 나옹 선사(1320∼1376), was born in Yeonghae and founded this temple about 700 years ago. 

He left home at the age of 21 to become a Buddhist priest. Five years later, he suddenly attained enlightenment while meditating day and night. In those days, Mongol Empire, the Yuan Dynasty 원나라 established by the Mongols ruled China from 1271 to 1368.

Naong went to Yuan China to learn more in the birthplace of Seon Buddhism, and went and found some renowned Seon masters there, among whom the Indian monk Dhyana Bhadra, who then stayed in Yuan, was most popularly known as Jigong 지공, 指空 and formally recognized Naong as an enlightened master. After returning from China, he was appointed as king's teacher. 

Naong and Yi saek were from the same place, lived in the same period and sustained friendship even if Yi saek was not a Buddhist and 8 years older. Yi saek wrote his epitaph after Naong died. Naong left a poem behind, which shows to us his deep sense of unity with great nature, not separated from each other.

Blue mountain teaches me to live silently

Blue sky teaches me to live innocently;

live like water and wind and die, 

leaving love and hatred behind.

short but steep climb

Heavy downpours that occurred a couple weeks ago struck some mountain villages in the northern Yeongcheon 영천. While cycling on a sunny hot weekend, could find the debris left behind along the stream and lakeside. Bohyunsan(Mt. Bohyun) optical astronomy observatory 보현산 천문대 stands atop Mt. Bohyun which can be looked up from the road across the nearby southern village. This mountain has attracted those who are interested in trekking and cycling. The trail is paved  in a zigzag pattern from the bottom to the top around the observatory.                         

Cycling in the remote area makes us more refreshed even if sometimes tried to pass in busy traffic in mountain areas and had to go through tunnels with accident risk as well. On the way to the starting point, Whanam township 화남면, barely managed to ride up a short steep mountain pass between Gigye 기계 and Imgo 임고 at maximum effort.

cool breeze

Seongju 성주, around 30 km away in the west direction from Daegu 대구, is a small and peaceful town surrounded by mountains and rivers whichever direction you look. Archaeological evidence indicates that Seongju has been populated since the Stone Age. Some sections of Seougju castle along with its northern gate recently renovated sits on the hill around the center of the town. 

Two traditional houses each with its own unique features, which were partly affected by architecture style in Japan during the colonial age, are also found in the nearby village to the north.

Autumn is finally drawing near. The scorching heat is ready to go far away. The relaxing sounds of crickets chirping at late summer night always remind us that autumn will come soon.

Rainy and hot days stopped a cyclist from biking for about one and half months. Seongju was the cycling destination last weekend. The selected cycling route from Daegu to Seongju covers mountain range and river banks with less traffic, which is required to traverse 4 mountain passes. Peaceful and scenic paths along the river banks on which he cycled for the first time in his life welcomed a solo cyclist, while the cool breeze kept touching the face.

dirt road memories still linger

                             

Ubo 우보, Gaum 가음 and Uiheung 의흥 are the peaceful myeon(township), the destination for cycling last weekend. Unloaded the bicycle from the SUV at the Ubo myeon office and hit the road. It had been rainy on the weekends these days, but it was a cool and shiny day, a typical spring weather.                             

          

On the way to Uiheung, turned left for Gaum, headed up north and crossed a pass down to Gaum with towering mountains in background. Gaum has been already visited several times. Last year, cycled up to an ancient Buddhist temple perched half-way up the nearby mountain in summer and fall. From Gaum, some route was partially overlapped. 

Less traffic and cleaner air with beautiful natural landscape! The traffic roads were avoided if possible when deciding which route to take. Trails on or along the river and stream banks are preferable, taking detours to avoid the traffic roads at times.

Noguijae 노귀재 on the cycling route used to be an important pass, together with Samjahyun 삼자현, which must be crossed to access the south side of Cheongsong county 청송군 from the southern areas. Since Noguijae tunnel was built about 10 years ago, the scenes of service area on the pass of Noguijae have changed a lot. 

The memories of dirt road back in those years still linger. Much later after paving the road, dropped by the service area on the way to Juwang mountain national park 주왕산 국립공원 in Cheongsong  for work picnic in autumn 14 years ago, it was crowded with hikers and picnickers. 

These days, nearly no traffic, this long and winding road above the tunnel is dull and quiet, sometimes elderly adults who have been here since past years visit leisurely, however, Noguijae becomes a much loved path for cyclists, as time changes everything.

To get to Noguijae, a cyclist had to traverse two passes northwards and eastwards of the valley. After taking a rest a few minutes at Noguijae, zigzagged down the road on the other side towards a three-way intersection. Turned right there, they had to cross another pass and cycle back down west towards Gunwi Dam.

on a windy day

At the end of winter, cycled around the rural and mountain areas. The scheduled route starts from Byeokjin myeon(township) 벽진면 in Seongju county 성주군 and returns to its starting point via Gimcheon city 김천시. Daegu 대구, Seongju 성주, and Gimcheon 김천 are located next to one another along the western boundary of Daegu; the north-western boundary of Seongju county.

The weather was windy and partly cloudy. The views along the road often attracted the cyclist to take a break to feel the typical winter landscapes and take photos, however, 4 steep uphills on the mountain route required a lot of energy, which made a cyclist tired and exhausted. Most of the areas on the route were visited for the first time in life.

Windy weather can be a big challenge for cycling. Crosswind often made the cyclist less stable, hard, and potentially very dangerous. To cycle safely, make sure to lower speed and maintain balance. Back then, it was fortunate not to fall down while cycling.