Sankhu

Sankhu सक्व was one of the Newari villages that Jaeho had wanted to visit again in 15 years. It is a traditional and peaceful village not overrun with tourists. The local bus for Sankhu starts at the bus station near Ratna park. Sankhu lies on the northeastern corner of  Kathmandu valley, which was once known as an ancient trading post on the route between Lhasa in Tibet and Kathmandu. It retained the traditional Newari settlement and much of its medieval characters. Unfortunately, however, the earthquakes in 2015 severely damaged 90% of traditional houses in Sankhu.

Shree Ugratara Vajrayogini temple constructed in 1665 is located on the hilltop about 1.5 km north of Sankhu. To reach this temple, you should take a hike to the north from Sankhu and turn left from the paved road somewhere as the above photo. The trail along with long ascending stone steps leads to the temple. But took the wrong way and went straight. Because the memory of the trail he took 15 years ago was so faint, not until he walked further up the road, doubting if he was heading the right direction and finally asked the villagers for directions, he realized he was on the wrong road. 

It was hot and the northward road has broken here and there, and motorcycles, trucks, and buses often raised lots of dust. Got out of the wrong road first taken and returned to the right trail to the temple as the villagers pointed and walked on the path across the field as the photo on the top.

At the entrance of the temple where visitors climb the last stone stair, they face the main 3-roofed temple dedicated to the tantric goddess worshiped as Ugratara by Buddhists and Vajrayogini by Hindus together. A smaller two-roofed temple is on the right. Two temples are surrounded by old trees, sculptures, and statues. This temple didn't manage to avoid the earthquake disasters, either. The gorgeous 3-tiered roof of the main temple was collapsed and some tin sheets are temporarily installed instead. The wooden planks are seen to support the structure of damaged temples.

This sketch depicts the main temple with the nearby smaller one, which was done from the upper side behind it on Oct. 23, 2002. The old building from which Jaeho looked down during sketching was also reduced to rubble.

On the way to the bus park, with a villager's help, Jaeho went to a cave where the great Tibetan saint, Milarepa(1052~1135) was said to have practiced for a long time.