riverside scene

The day before Lunar New Year, padyatri took a walk from home toward the Nakdong-gang River. Since it was the holiday season, people were only sparsely seen along the walking path by the stream.   

For the first time in a while, he arrived at the Samunjin 사문진 Ferry Tavern, located on the riverside in front of Hwawon 화원 Resort. Villagers used to cross the river here by ferry before the bridge connecting Hwawon and Dasan 다산 was built. 

Now, although the ferry is gone, the tavern has been restored and is bustling with locals and tourists. That day was no exception; the tavern was packed with people enjoying food accompanied by alcohol, such as Makgeolli 막걸리. Since the tavern's restoration, small cruise boats have been in operation. A ticket booth and staff members are stationed at the cruise dock.

As he stood on the riverbank overlooking the dock, gazing at the river, a commotion broke out among the staff, indicating an emergency. They were pointing toward the middle of the bridge, exchanging words urgently. padyatri looked in that direction and saw someone struggling in the water! Near the bridge pier, a person was repeatedly bobbing up and down, sinking and resurfacing. Immediately, a rescue boat departed from the dock, approached the area under the bridge, and pulled the drowning person out of the water. In the meantime, the police and the 119 rescue team arrived.

Fortunately, the person who appeared to be a man and had fallen into the water was rescued, and it seemed that his life was not in danger. After staying on a boat docked at the pier, he was wrapped in a blanket, walked on his own, got into the police car, and then left the scene. They later said that a foreigner had jumped from the middle of the bridge in a suicide attempt. The center of Samunjin Bridge is known as a frequent spot for such attempts, which is why an SOS emergency phone is installed on the bridge railing.

While some people were happily drinking and reveling at the riverside tavern, at that very moment, another person had given up on life and was struggling at the threshold of death in the cold river water. 

winter temple

About 20 kilometers east of Miryang 밀양 city, on the southern slopes of Mt. Jaeyak ksan 재약산, stands a temple that was established in 654.

It was padyatri's first visit to Pyochungsa 표충사 表忠寺 temple in nearly 20 years. The once-lush green leaves had all fallen, and there were hardly any visitors, making the entrance scene feel calm and peaceful. Walking in from the empty parking lot, he greeted two monks he met along the way.

Following the paved path through the forest, a gate came into view. After passing through two gates and reaching the entrance to the temple grounds, there was a banner hanging on the wall beside the gate that read, “Cold, isn’t it? Please stop by for a cup of tea~~.” 

This Buddhist temple is closely associated with a renowned monk named Sa- myeong Daesa 사명대사 泗溟大師(1544-1610), who led monk-soldiers to defend the country during a crisis. His Dharma name was Yujeong 유정 惟政, and his pen name was Samyeong 사명 泗溟. Out of respect, he is referred to as Samyeong Daesa, meaning Great Master Samyeong. 

During the Imjin War 임진왜란 壬辰倭亂, or Japanese Invasions of Korea(1592–1598 ), when Japanese forces crossed the sea and invaded the Korean Peninsula, placing the nation in grave danger, the Joseon 조선 dynasty court—despite its policy of suppressing Buddhism and promoting Confucianism—called upon Buddhist monks to help repel the invaders. 

At that time, the atrocities committed by the Japanese forces were extremely brutal and horrific. In order to prove their war trophies and receive rewards, they even killed civilians, cutting off ears and noses and preserving them in salt to take back to Japan. 

In Buddhism, taking a life is a grave sin that violates the 5 Precepts, but to stop the Japanese army’s atrocities, the monastic precepts were set aside. Yujeong, as one of the principal leaders who commanded monk-soldiers nationwide and participated in the battles of that period, not only defeated the Japanese forces but also distinguished himself by venturing into the Japanese military camp of Katō Kiyomasa 加藤 清正 to negotiate a ceasefire. 

After the war ended, the royal court, in recognition of his merits during the war, offered him a high official post and stipends. However, he resolutely refused it and returned to the life of a mountain monk, staying true to his original role until he passed away.

One of the outward features of Pyochungsa is its remarkably spacious courtyard. The empty, undecorated space seems to silently convey to visitors the Buddha’s realization of emptiness and the transience of worldly greed.