winter temple

About 20 kilometers east of Miryang 밀양 city, on the southern slopes of Mt. Jaeyak ksan 재약산, stands a temple that was established in 654.

It was padyatri's first visit to Pyochungsa 표충사 表忠寺 temple in nearly 20 years. The once-lush green leaves had all fallen, and there were hardly any visitors, making the entrance scene feel calm and peaceful. Walking in from the empty parking lot, he greeted two monks he met along the way.

Following the paved path through the forest, a gate came into view. After passing through two gates and reaching the entrance to the temple grounds, there was a banner hanging on the wall beside the gate that read, “Cold, isn’t it? Please stop by for a cup of tea~~.” 

This Buddhist temple is closely associated with a renowned monk named Sa- myeong Daesa 사명대사 泗溟大師(1544-1610), who led monk-soldiers to defend the country during a crisis. His Dharma name was Yujeong 유정 惟政, and his pen name was Samyeong 사명 泗溟. Out of respect, he is referred to as Samyeong Daesa, meaning Great Master Samyeong. 

During the Imjin War 임진왜란 壬辰倭亂, or Japanese Invasions of Korea(1592–1598 ), when Japanese forces crossed the sea and invaded the Korean Peninsula, placing the nation in grave danger, the Joseon 조선 dynasty court—despite its policy of suppressing Buddhism and promoting Confucianism—called upon Buddhist monks to help repel the invaders. 

At that time, the atrocities committed by the Japanese forces were extremely brutal and horrific. In order to prove their war trophies and receive rewards, they even killed civilians, cutting off ears and noses and preserving them in salt to take back to Japan. 

In Buddhism, taking a life is a grave sin that violates the 5 Precepts, but to stop the Japanese army’s atrocities, the monastic precepts were set aside. Yujeong, as one of the principal leaders who commanded monk-soldiers nationwide and participated in the battles of that period, not only defeated the Japanese forces but also distinguished himself by venturing into the Japanese military camp of Katō Kiyomasa 加藤 清正 to negotiate a ceasefire. 

After the war ended, the royal court, in recognition of his merits during the war, offered him a high official post and stipends. However, he resolutely refused it and returned to the life of a mountain monk, staying true to his original role until he passed away.

One of the outward features of Pyochungsa is its remarkably spacious courtyard. The empty, undecorated space seems to silently convey to visitors the Buddha’s realization of emptiness and the transience of worldly greed.

winter harbor

After a long time, padyatri visited Gampo 감포 Port on the East Sea coast near Gyeongju 경주 with a senior. The weather was chilly, with temperatures dropping below freezing, but under a cloudless, clear sky, the sunshine felt warmly comforting. We arrived around lunchtime, and the restaurant district was crowded with visitors. 

In cold weather, fish don’t bite very well, so most fishing boats were moored at the pier. Even the hagfish in the restaurant aquariums were curled into tight circles, huddled up, and gazing outward. 

Gampo was developed into a fishing port during the Japanese colonial period, when many Japanese people moved there. Even today, Japanese-style houses are preserved near the market.

For lunch, they had Mulhoe 물회, usually translated into English as “cold raw fish soup,” at a fish restaurant near the breakwater. However, considering the price of 25,000 won per person, the food was rather disappointing. The restaurant owners seemed to view customers as one-time passersby, so the food felt overly commercial and profit-driven. Of course, not all restaurants were like that, but even the senior—who is a gourmet—was visiting after a long time and tried to jog his memory; unfortunately, he couldn’t find the restaurant. 

Despite the bitter cold, people were fishing at the pier. Some of them were women. They say that the fresh taste of fish caught in clear, cold water, along with the calm and quiet fishing environment, makes winter fishing so appealing.

winter suburbs

padyatri went out of the city to the outskirts over the weekend. It was a place he had visited before by bicycle, but this time he took a city bus. If you take a bus north, you will reach a village called Joya 조야 in a small valley.. 

Joya is the final stop of the bus route. It felt like the terminal and its surrounding area had changed a bit since he last visited. If you go further into the village alleys, a mountain trail appears soon, and if you keep going up, you reach the mountain ridge. 

 

Following the ridge eastward, you eventually descend to another small village called Nogok 노곡. The Seoul–Busan Expressway runs in front of Nogok and Joya, which are densely packed within a small area, featuring residential housing, small-scale factories, restaurants, and shops.

To the south of Nogok flows the Geumho 금호 River, and since River Island Park (Hajungdo 하중도 Park) opened a few years ago, this village has become somewhat crowded with visitors. In the past, the island, formed from layers of sediment deposited over many years, was covered with plastic greenhouses. After being newly developed into a park, it is now filled with flowers throughout the year—starting with rapeseed blossoms in spring and continuing in every season except winter. The photo on the right shows a view from the air of rapeseed flowers in full bloom in spring.

Don't Stop Me Now(Queen Cover)

A band composed of Korean female musicians performed a cover of Queen’s ‘Don’t Stop Me Now, which was featured on a YouTube channel called “초면에 합해보자, Hello, Let’s Rock.” The name was chosen to emphasize the original concept of bringing together female musicians who were truly meeting for the first time to play together, and it has been kept even after they became acquainted.

Each member practices individually for a week, then meets the others to rehearse together for the first time. Among several takes, the best one is released without editing.

They are currently considering an official band name for future formal activities, such as releasing original songs. The jam sessions take place in a music production studio, which is run by the audio engineer who produces the channel.