the deepening autumn

As November arrives, the temperature drops sharply, and people’s clothing gets thicker. It’s a bit chilly, but it’s the perfect season to ride a bicycle comfortably without breaking a sweat. The crisp air feels refreshing, and the cool breeze makes pedaling pleasant rather than tiring. 

Last Sunday, a padyatri rode his bicycle along the streams and riverside paths in the northern area of Daegu 대구, making a full round trip. On the way, he passed through a rural village where the villagers were finishing up the harvest. Continuing on, leaving the countryside behind, he entered the city. To shorten the return time, he entered the bike path along the stream running through central Taejeon-dong 태전동 area. A new bike path had been built along the stream, with a monorail running above it. 

the Buddha's path

A very significant insight a padyatri has recently gained about Buddhism is the legendary anecdote that the Buddha transmitted his enlightenment to Mahākāśyapa 마하가섭 when he held up a flower and Mahākāśyapa smiled was a fiction created in China. Besides, realizing that the Buddha’s original teaching and Chinese Buddhism, along with Seon(Zen) Buddhism 선불교, are not the same, a padyatri had to reconsider Buddhism from a new perspective and in a new way.

견성성불 見性成佛 expresses the core idea of Seon Buddhism: enlightenment is attained through directly perceiving one’s own true nature and attaining Buddhahood. On the other hand, it is a statement that greatly distorts Buddhism. In fact, the Buddha realized anatta(non-self) and did not acknowledge any kind of substance or existence.

As Buddhism was transmitted to China and became indigenized, it absorbed Daoist and Laozi thought, giving rise to Seon Buddhism. It was a process in which the logical and analytical Buddhism transformed into the intuitive and non-logical Seon Buddhism. 

It is almost impossible to attain enlightenment through Seon Buddhism. This is proven by the fact that since Seon Buddhism was introduced to the Korean Peninsula around the 4th century, very few have truly attained enlightenment. Therefore, in modern times, since Korean monks cannot find answers within Korean Seon Buddhism, they often go to Theravada Buddhist countries such as Myanmar, Thailand, and Sri Lanka to seek the path.

A well-known Seon dialogue can be cited as an example of the limitations and problems of Seon Buddhism. Such lofty, abstract stories, heavily colored by Chinese Buddhist influence, are not the way the Buddha kindly taught the truth to his disciples.

A monk asked Zhaozhou 조주,                                                                           “What is the meaning of the Patriarch’s coming from the West?”

Zhaozhou 조주 replied,                                                                           
“The cypress tree in the front yard.”

The Buddha's enlightenment is the doctrine of dependent origination 연기법(pratītyasamutpāda), which is expressed through the Four Noble Truths 사성제, and the Noble Eightfold Path 팔정도. The precise map leading to that path is also Dependent Origination, the Four Noble Truths, and the Noble Eightfold Path.

Even if one has not yet attained enlightenment, the fact that enlightenment exists and the method to reach it are presented by the Buddha with utmost clarity. It is by no means an unrealistic or fanciful story. Therefore, by following that path, we can have confidence and hope that we will eventually attain enlightenment.

20 years later

As autumn arrived, a padyatri visited Jeokcheonsa 적천사, an ancient Buddhist temple located 4 kilometers south of Cheongdo 청도, for the first time in 20 years. It is said that this temple was founded around 1,600 years ago during the Silla period by a Buddhist layman 거사, and over time, it grew in scale. Around the year 1100, during the Goryeo 고려 dynasty, approximately 500 monks practiced here, and many renowned Zen masters emerged from this place.

At the entrance of the temple stand two famous ginkgo trees that greet visitors. They are estimated to be around 800 years old, and in late autumn, they turn a brilliant yellow, transforming into a spectacular sight. These trees have been designated and preserved as national monuments. According to legend, they grew from the staff that a monk named Jinul 지눌 planted while rebuilding and repairing the old structures of Jeokcheonsa in 1175 during the Goryeo dynasty. He was a venerable monk of the Goryeo period who played a decisive role in establishing Korean Seon Buddhism. It was the end of October, but autumn had come late to this mountain. On the day a padyatri went, the ginkgo leaves still had a greenish hue rather than the typical golden yellow of autumn.       

  

Jeokcheonsa is located halfway up the mountain, so you can either drive there or park in the village at the foot of the mountain and walk up. A padyatri walked up, and it seemed that many more houses had been built throughout the valley compared to the past.

as autumn returns once more

Drove to Daehap 대합 township, a typical country village in Gyeongnam 경남 province and started from the township office. Each day of October’s autumn feels more and more precious. The mountain pass between Daehap and Goam 고암 had a steep uphill section, which was a bit tough, but it was an enjoyable day during the Chuseok 추석 holiday.

Took a short break at the top of the mountain pass between Daehap and Goam areas. The long downhill beyond the hill was enough to cool off a cyclist's  sweat. The photo on the right shows the downhill road leading to Goam after crossing the mountain pass and the rural scenery.

Rode over once again the long mountain pass from Goam to the Seongsan 성산 area and headed east toward the Dalchang 달창 Reservoir. The road runs right next to the reservoir, allowing you to enjoy the scenery. You can keep going straight along the road, then descend the downhill near the reservoir embankment and turn left, which will take you onto a path that runs just below the embankment. You can also see the Dalchang reservoir embankment in the distance. 

stone steps

At the end of the year, these photos remind padyatri of his school days. The stone steps lead to the main entrance of the College of Pharmacy, evoking mixed feelings for him.

After graduating from high school, he decided to pursue studies to become a pharmacist. However, after entering college, it did not take long for him to realize that studying pharmacy was a significant challenge. Subjects like chemistry and biology felt like steep summits to climb. In truth, pharmacy did not align with his natural aptitudes or interests.

Moreover, the College of Pharmacy had a stringent grading system: students were required to achieve a certain number of credits each year to avoid repeating the year. During this period, he often contemplated quitting college. Nevertheless, he resolved to persevere, believing that since he had already enrolled, he should at least see it through to graduation.

Every day was a struggle until the day he finally graduated. For him, graduation felt like a true liberation. He chose not to attend the formal graduation ceremony. Instead, he celebrated his newfound freedom by climbing a mountain—a fitting way to mark the end of his arduous journey. 

Graduation also meant a new beginning.

an aspect of life

He has never been that sick before, but the other day, padyatri had to accept that sickness is part of life. Unexpectedly, he experienced acute prostatitis last weekend. The onset of symptoms feels similar to the body aches of a common cold, but it quickly develops into urinary problems, such as painful urination or even a feeling of being stuck in the urinary tract. 

He couldn’t sleep all night due to a burning sensation, pain during urination, and frequent urges to urinate. Early the next morning, he went to see a urologist nearby. Urinalysis and urinary ultraography were performed. The urinalysis indicates a severe prostate infection, while the ultrasound reveals that the prostate is enlarged to twice its normal size. He received an antibiotic injection, and oral medication was prescribed twice daily for three days. Blood was taken for further tests. 

The medication was really effective and slowly relieved the pain and discomfort when urinating, however, blood in the urine started to be found at the beginning of the medication. It was not clear whether that was due to a side effect of quinolone antibiotics or one of the symptoms of acute prostatitis. The doctor asked the patient to continue taking the prescribed medication. 

Two days after taking the medicine, the blood in my urine started to disappear. Blood tests revealed a PSA(prostate-specific antigen) level of 14, whereas the normal level is below 4. The urologist said that the level indicates a high risk of prostate cancer, but the severe prostate infection might affect the level. Next week, a blood sample will be taken for another PSA test.

The photo was taken in November 1997, with Kalinchowk in the background, near Dolakha bazar in the eastern-central region of Nepal. Kalinchowk has undergone significant changes since its development as both a tourist destination and a place of worship. A new village just below Kalinchow was built for tourists and Hindu pilgrims and a cable car has been newly installed to make it easier to reach the summit. Kalinchowk is no longer the pristine haven it used to be.

dusty road

It turned out that the countryside around Goryeong 고령 and Seongju 성주 districts, on the western border of Daegu, had already finished harvesting. The road and the path along the rice fields were very dusty due to the dirt left behind by agricultural vehicles during the harvesting season. Inhaled a lot of dust whenever cars passed by and stirred it up, which caused a cyclist to develop a sore throat. 

Managed to continue along the route to the west and crossed a pass between the two villages of Gotan 고탄 and Palsan 팔산 in Goryeong district. Paused for a moment to take a break around the office of Unsu 운수 township after zigzagging down from the pass, and a square in front of the office can be also seen. Enjoyed autumnal sidewalk scene on the way home. 

autumn downtown

Biked through the southern part of downtown for the first time in a long time and circled the city counterclockwise. It was cloudy all day, but it was a perfect day for biking! All the leaves on the trees turned red and yellow. 

Shincheon 신천 stream flows through the city from south to north and joins Geumho 금호 river at the end. There are two paths along the stream, one for the bikers and the other for the pedestrians. The route looped back through Dasa 다사 district, the northwestern part of Daegu 대구. On the way back, rushed along the cycling path around Dasa, looking at the apartment complex in the distance.

rushed through reeds

Indoor activities were limited during the pandemic, leading to a surge in the cycling population in Korea. The bicycle industry and market experienced a huge boom. Bike shops couldn’t keep up with demand. But the pandermic and the boom were over. The demand for new bicycles has fallen dramatically, and the number of cyclists is also said to have declined. In Korea, some bike shops have managed to adapt and are struggling to survive, while others may need to close for good. 

These days, the bike path along the river doesn't see as many cyclists as it used to, even though it is the peak of the cycling season. Headed to Waeghan 왜관 for the first time in a long while. The cool fall breeze took away all the sweat, turning the reeds along the riverbank brown. Took a rest for a while under an abandoned railway track near Waeghan. Samunjin 사문진 bridge over the Nakdong 낙동 river with a view of a river cruise. A triathlon on a national level took place in the vicinity of the bridge over the weekend.

on the path

Autumn brings fascinating weather. Cycled along the riverside path as autumn set in, and the leaves turned shades of yellow and red. 

Headed toward Seongju 성주 bridge, facing the Nakdong 낙동 river. The path was quiet, with little activity around. The photo below left was taken on the way to Samunjin 사문진 bridge, every once in a while, you might come across a biker. The photo below right shows the way down, approaching the path along the banks of the Nakdong 낙동 river. In the distance, a mountain range connecting Mt. Ap 앞산 and Mt. Biseul 비슬산 can be seen.

autumn countryside

Cycled through the countryside of the three districts-Gyeongju 경주, Cheongdo 청도, and Yeongcheon 영천-passing through fields and mountains. It has been almost a year since Jaeho was last here to ride. 

It was a typical sunny autumn day. As the morning sunlight emerged, the fog over the mountains gradually lifted, but the distant view remained unclear. From the district of Ahwa 아화, approached the uphill segment in order to cross Suk-jae 숙재 pass(485 m).

Had to cross through the ridge passage to the south along the route. The uphill climb to the Suk-jae pass is about 4 km long and has 9 hairpin bends. The photo on the right dipicts the final bend. The downhill segment, heading south from the pass, spans about 17 km and has little traffic, offering a peaceful landscape. Since the outbreak of the COVID-19 pandemic, camping has also been booming in Korea. Camping and auto-camping sites are often found along valleys.

After reaching the main road connecting Gyeongju and Cheongdo, turned right and rode for about 5 km, then turned right off the main road and pedaled uphill, heading north to cross Oh-jae 오재(380 m) pass. The two passes of Suk-jae and Oh-jae share the same ridge. Took a break at the pass. A memorial stone for an independence fighter stands here at the rest area. On the way back, passed through the town of Geoncheon 건천, the starting place. As autumn deepens, the harvest in the paddy fields is starting.

ran through the mountains and fields

Got up at 4 AM, started driving to Yeoungdeok 영덕 at 5 AM to avoid traffic jams, and arrived at the parking lot of the stadium of Yeoungdeok county at about 7 AM. Visited Yeongdeok again after four months. It was a little chilly in the morning, a typical autumn weather. The route crossed Yangseol-ryeong(490 m)양설령 pass by way of the Dalsan 달산 district of Yeongdeok county, continued to the Budong 부동 district of Cheongsong 청송 county, and then looped back through Okgye 옥계 and Ganggu 강구. 

Through the Dalsan 달산 district of Yeongdeok county, rode toward the Yangseol-ryeong pass. You can enjoy a peaceful and typical countryside landscape with almost no traffic and only a few villagers around. The uphill segment to the pass is about 4.6 km in length. Even though Jaeho has crossed it three times, he always felt goosebumps due to the damaged road surface and steep slope while going down the steep hill. The valley you arrive at after going down the slope is famous for its apple orchards. Along the road, ripening apples on the trees awaited harvest.

Since Ganggu literally means the entrance to the river, the Osipcheon 오십천 river here flows into the East sea 동해. On the weekend, the fishing town was crowded with tourists who wanted to eat fresh seafood. Left the town behind and along the riverside trail, returned to the starting point, the stadium of Yeongdeok county. While driving back to Daegu 대구, felt tired and sleepy but arrived at home safely.

early autumn mood

Last weekend, rode a bicycle around the Cheongdo 청도 area, located south of Daegu 대구. This area is rural, and there are many quiet roads to avoid traffic, making it great for cycling. 

Visited this area for the first time in a year. We could feel the early autumn mood in the countryside. Contrary to the weather forecast, encountered a sudden shower near Punggak 풍각, but the air felt pleasantly cool.

Seonggok 성곡 reservoir near Punggak and its crest line. Paddy fields turn a golden color. Cheongdo Eupseong 읍성 fortress was built as a stone fortress during the early Joseon Dynasty, but it was demolished during the Japanese colonial period and has recently been restored.

autumn has not arrived yet

Rode a bike for the first time in a while. Although autumn is just around the corner, it has been so hot lately, but today was cloudy, making it perfect for cycling. Even when crossed shindong pass 신동재, it wasn't that hard. Took a short break at shindong catholic church 신동성당 before heading back. 

Donggok 동곡 village located along the road leading to Habin 하빈 township. In  front of Jicheon 지천 railway station, which had been crowded with people and lately became an abandoned station due to a decrease in the number of passengers. Ran along the embankment trails, avoiding the car roads as much as possible. The paddy fields are turning golden yellow hue.

monsoon begins

The scorching heat, which exceeded 30 degrees Celsius, was tempered by the pouring rain. The two cats, always clad in their fur coats, found some relief from the heat and briefly regained their energy. The sweltering temperatures are hard to bear for both people and animals.

However, the summer that comes every year also passes in due time. Just as constantly shifting sensations pass by like vivid images on a screen, so too does the heat eventually fade.

rainy weekend

Haven't ridden a bike for the past three weekends. With summer beginning, it’s been either too hot or rainy every weekend to go for a ride. It’s going to rain again this weekend. The two cats at home are staring out the window, though it’s unclear what they’re watching.

Tomorrow, on Sunday, Jaeho will go to EXCO in Buk-gu 북구, the northern district of Daegu 대구, for an annual job training session that is held at this time of year. Lunch will be provided by the organization hosting the training. Plan to use the bus and subway to get to the training center. The registration time will take place  from 8:30 AM to 9:30 AM, and attendance will be confirmed using a barcode generated on the attendee's smartphone. This system is used to prevent proxy attendance, which occasionally occurs. 

along the coastline

Woke up early in the morning to cycle around Yeongdeok 영덕 county on the east coast. It takes about 2 hours to drive to there. It was the first time in about 4 years that  a man has visited a coastal village, Byeonggok 병곡 in the north.

A perfect day for cycling! Ran along the coastline and riverside. Since brought up here for a few years here during childhood, this route always evokes old memories. Stopped for a minute to take in the scenery from time to time. Ganggu 강구, a fishing port, has been changed a lot since it has attacted tourists from all over the country. The best snow crabs are caught in the clear waters of the sea near Yeongdeok. Running through downtown, you will be able to see a lot of restaurants offering local seafood cuisine.  

cool weekend

It was a pretty cool weekend. Rode along the riverside trail and roads safely on the northwestern outskirts of Daegu 대구. The opening of the new Seongju 성주 bridge to traffic has been putting off so far, which makes it safer & more peaceful for people to cross the river.

A bicycle trail along the Nakdong 낙동 river near Hwawon 화원 resort offers scenic views of yellow flowers called lanceleaf tickseed. On the way back, crossed a plastic lumbar cycling bridge along the shore of the Nakdong river near Dasa 다사.